Franschoek, Western Cape, South Africa

The town of Franschhoek is an absolute gem hidden in a valley in wine country just northeast of Cape Town, South Africa. Most people are not aware that South Africa is the 9th largest wine producer in the world. Of course, France is the largest producer, but South Africa does provide 19% of the world's production, and many of the finest wineries are in the Franschhoek Valley. It is the hearts blood of the Afrikaaner part of South Africa with the old Cape Dutch architecture prevalent in the sleepy towns and wine farms alike. The town's history is amazing:

After the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in France in 1685, when Protestantism was outlawed, hundreds of so-called Huguenots fled their homeland, 277 of them arriving by ship at the Cape of Good Hope. Many of them were given land by the Dutch colonial government in a valley called Oliphantshoek (Elephant Corner) - so named because of the vast herds of elephants that roamed the area. Soon after they settled here, it become known as Franschhoek (French Corner). By the way, the last elephant left the valley in 1850, but you can sure see why they loved living here!

This heritage lives on today with the Huguenot monument standing proudly at the end of the main street. The museum nearby chronicles the history of those brave pioneers, with each of the original Huguenot farms having its own fascinating story to tell. And, behind the monument is the pioneer's cemetery where many of the grave markers are visible of the original pioneers.

The wineries are absolutely fabulous, and they offer attractions ranging from car museums to the very best restaurants in the country. There are a number of wonderful cottages and rooms to rent that are situated in buildings a couple of hundred years old with floors made of yellow wood and authentic antique furniture. Most have courtyards with swimming pools, hot tubs, and verandas where, on warmer days and nights, you can sit outside and have a glass of wine and watch the sun set. The stars were so bright and vivid and you can see all the southern constellations so clearly that you think you are in the middle of nowhere.... and you kind of are! The town is only 13,000 residents, and it is quite a ways away from the nearest towns of Stellenbosch or Paarl.

So, back to the wineries... the biggest attraction here. The wines are the best I have ever tasted, and there was a Chardonnay at La Petite Ferme that was THE BEST EVER! I had dinner at a table in the tasting room (the restaurant was full as people make reservations here many weeks in advance), so they took a little round table, threw a table cloth over it right in front of the fireplace with a real fire in it (it was winter after all!). I had a squid and mussel thingy that was truly delicious, but the Chardonnay really set it off. The view was from the Franschhoek Pass overlooking the valley (it is a box canyon type of thing with a switchback road rising to over 1,800 feet above the valley floor). It was a sunny day and extremely stunning. After lunch and a cappuccino, I went outside and sat on a park bench and just enjoyed the sun and the view for almost an hour. There were some Mexicans at the table next to me (a rare chance to speak some Spanish), and folks from all over the world having lunch at this apparently famous place.

This is just one of the many wonderful restaurants at wineries, but there are some great ones in the little village as well. There was a place called the Elephant and Barrel that was an old English pub atmosphere with great beer, wine, and nachos? Bizarre but very good. When we were here before we ate outside of a restaurant called the French Connection that has the best club sandwich I have ever eaten (Clay really loved it!). There was a lot of opportunity to buy art of all kinds from stone sculptures to oil painting and metal working and everything in between. But, I will save my money and just have son, Greg, carve me a stone sculpture as he is pretty darned good at that sort of thing.

I really needed this break as I have been hitting the research trail pretty hard lately. And, of course, Reese left this week and I was pretty lonely as well. Franschhoek was definitely the tonic I needed... well, combined with sun, excellent food and exquisite white wine. I was invigorated enough to go back to Somerset West and hit the books again. I have an important meeting with my professor this week as well, so must be prepared!